FEATURE: Clothing as Protest
By Elspeth Chapman
Fashion has always been more than just a matter of style or self-expression. Throughout history, clothing has functioned as a powerful tool of political expression, used to communicate resistance, solidarity and identity. From historic movements to contemporary activism, fashion has played a key role in challenging authority and shaping social change. Whether worn by activists, designers, or everyday people, clothing can become a visible and easily accessible form of protest.
By Elspeth Chapman
Historic roots of protest fashion in the UK
In the decades following the Second World War, protest fashion in the UK began to reflect the much deeper struggles around race, identity and belonging. Clothing became a way for marginalised communities and youth subcultures to respond to social exclusion and political mistreatment.
In the post-war period, Caribbean migrants of the Windrush generation used fashion as a way to assert their dignity and cultural pride in the face of racism. Smart tailoring, sharp suits, hats and polished shoes were worn deliberately to counter racist stereotypes. Clothing became a form of quiet resistance, allowing those who were mistreated to challenge discrimination through their style.
By the 1970s, protest fashion took on a more confrontational edge through the punk movement. Initially emerging in response to economic decline, youth unemployment and distrust in politics, punk used shocking clothing to reject mainstream values and authority. The garments often featured large rips, safety pins, tartan and DIY aesthetics. Designers such as Vivienne Westwood helped shape this look, which blurred the lines between street protest and cultural rebellion. Punk fashion challenged social norms around respectability, class and consumerism, making the body itself the work of political resistance.
Across different historical moments, clothing has enabled individuals and communities to assert identity, challenge power structures, and communicate political beliefs without words.
Modern Movements and Everyday Activism
In the UK, fashion continues to be a visible and powerful tool for protest and solidarity across a range of social movements. Priya Ahluwalia is a British designer whose collections blend heritage, identity, and political expression. Drawing on her Nigerian and Indian roots, Ahluwalia challenges Eurocentric norms while highlighting stories often excluded from mainstream. Her 2021 collection ‘Liberation’ used graphic prints inspired by archives of protest posters, nodding explicitly to Black Lives Matter movement whilst also referencing Lagos’ street culture. On the runway, her pieces turned fashion into a statement about belonging, resistance and racial visibility.
Fashion in the UK has also intersected with global movements for justice. During pro‑Palestine marches in London, demonstrators have worn the Palestinian keffiyehs, a black-and-white scarf that has long symbolised resistance and solidarity. Draped over shoulders or worn as a head covering, the keffiyeh functions as culturally resonant symbol of support for Palestinian rights. Emerging British designer, Ayham Hassan, a recent graduate from Central Saint Martins, has incorporated Palestinian embroidery and motifs in their creative work. These contemporary silhouettes are a part of a runway collection that simultaneously celebrate cultural identity and highlight the struggle and grief of Palestine. These designs demonstrate how fashion can help to amplify solidarity, high profile events like CSM graduate shows are THE place for emerging designers to use their platform for change.
Most recently, fashion has become an explicit platform for LGBTQ+ activism in the UK. At London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025, American, London-based designer Conner Ives closed his show wearing a “Protect the Dolls” T‑shirt. This slogan originated from Black and Latina ballroom culture; it was often used as a term that advocated for the protection of trans women. The T-shirt quickly spread beyond the runway, with celebrities such as Pedro Pascal and Troye Sivan publicly wearing it, turning the garment into a recognisable symbol of allyship. Proceeds from the sales were donated to the trans-led charity Trans Lifeline, showing how fashion can operate as a cultural statement, a political protest and a tool for change.
These examples are just a few of many that illustrate how the contemporary UK fashion scene functions as a place of protest. Whether addressing racial injustice, international solidarity or trans rights, garments have become powerful vehicles for resistance, identity and community.
The Tension Between Protest and Commercialisation
While fashion can be a powerful form of protest, the line between genuine activism and superficial branding is increasingly blurring. As protest aesthetics become more popular, many brands have been accused of using these political symbols for profit without meaningful commitment to the causes they signal.
Rainbow washing is when companies plaster Pride colours on products or logos exclusively during Pride Month, while offering minimal or no support to LGBTQ+ communities or company policies year‑round. In 2018, H&M faced a lot of heat due to their controversial release of their ‘Love for all’ line. In a BBC investigation looking into rainbow washing, they revealed that Pride collections from major fashion brands, including H&M and Levi’s, were made in countries where homosexuality is highly illegal. This highlighted that these products were more exploitative than they were supportive of LGBTQ+ communities.
This raises important questions about authenticity. Does purchasing protest‑themed clothing support meaningful change, or does it turn activism into a trend? When activism is used as a marketing tool, its political impact is diluted, and the messages of movements like LGBTQ+ liberation can often be overlooked by commercial gains.
Fashion is a powerful form of protest. From the tailoring of Windrush-era migrants asserting their dignity, to bold runway statements like Conner Ives’ “Protect the Dolls” T-shirt, clothing can make political messages more accessible, build solidarity and turn identity into action.
But protest fashion also has its limits. When slogans are sold as trends or rainbow-washed without real commitment, activism is diluted. True impact comes when style is paired with accountability, community support and sustained action.
Ultimately, what we wear can speak louder than words, fashion remains a tool for resistance and change, if it is used with intention.
